Looking Past the Conflict in Israel: Highlights, Hummus, and My Heritage

I didn’t at all know what to expect when I boarded that flight to Israel.

My friends had been sending me articles about El Al, Israel’s flagship airline, and their onboard missile defense systems. Apparently, they have the most sophisticated security system of any airline in existence.

I had been warned about the airport interrogations and had been told not to let anyone stamp my passport. Some countries don’t recognize Israel as a country and won’t let you enter if they see that you’ve crossed the border.

It’s a complicated place, this Israel.

It’s no easy task understanding what’s going on over here, and the whole story involves elements of history, politics and religion from hundreds and hundreds of years ago.

If you want to brush up on your knowledge, it might be worth reading this.

I’ll do my best to address the conflict in a future article because I think I would be doing both the country and yourselves, the readers of this website, a disservice by not broaching the subject. But outside of the conflict, and through sinking my teeth into the culture, people, food, and religion, I walked away with a very different understanding of Israel as it stands today.

And on top of that, I found something in Israel that I truly wasn’t expecting.

Things to Do in Israel

My three weeks in Israel were a whirlwind. I covered almost half of the country in the first couple of days, and somewhat slowly completed the rest of it over the following two weeks. I wasn’t totally sure what to expect from a country found right in the middle of a desert, but I knew I would find some unexpected treasures.

And a lot of sand.

Land Rover-ing in the Negev Desert

Inside the Ramon Crater
Inside the Ramon Crater.

The Ramon Crater (aka Mitzpe Ramon), found in the Negev Desert, is 28 miles wide and is actually not a crater–it’s what it called a makhtesh. There’s not actually an English translation for this word because the geological landform it refers to is unique to this specific region, where the two official languages are Hebrew and Arabic.

A makhtesh is essentially a valley caused by thousands of years of erosion. A hard outer layer of rock forms over a landmass and the softer minerals underneath it wash away. The top layer then crumbles into the empty space below, creating what you see in the images above.

Exploring the Negev Desert with Adam Sela
Exploring the Negev Desert with Adam Sela and his Land Rover

Adam Sela, a South African transplant and regional expert, loaded us up into his Land Rover and showed us petrified artifacts, geological formations, and stunning views of one of Israel’s most unique landscapes.

His trusty Land Rover has clocked more than 1.3 million km in the Negev Desert.

Pro tip: Ask Adam about his other job—he has some incredibly interesting stories!

Photographing the Dead Sea

Toasted land next to the turquoise Dead Sea
Toasted land next to the turquoise Dead Sea.

I didn’t have very high expectations of the Dead Sea. From what I had heard, the coastline was littered with garbage and the water was gross and murky. To be perfectly honest, these assessments are mostly true—the swimming areas of the Dead Sea are cluttered with plastic bags and bottles and the water is brown and salty.

Getting outside of the swimming areas, though, and photographing some of the vistas in the lesser-known areas of the Dead Sea was particularly rewarding. Long turquoise waves brushed up against the toasted brown of the desert, creating an exceptionally rare effect. One particular area on the southern Dead Sea, just outside of Jerusalem, is host to huge salt formations and was perhaps one of the most photogenic vistas I’ve ever seen.

Salt formations at the southern Dead Sea
Salt formations at the southern Dead Sea.

At 420 meters below sea level, the Dead Sea is the lowest point on earth. It’s salt concentration is so high that every part of your body floats and trying to keep any limb below the surface of the water is a difficult and hilarious task.

Pro tip: Don’t shave any part of your body before swimming in the Dead Sea. The salt burns, burns, burns, and if you’re a lady, well, it’s not going to be a pleasant experience.

Exploring Timna National Park

Timna selfie!
Timna selfie!

30 miles outside the resort town of Eilat lies Timna Valley, an old copper mine now encompassed by a park. Most notably known for it’s unusual and stunning rock formations, the sights in the Timna National Park were created through hundreds of years of rock fractures and erosion.

Climbing Solomon's Pillars, Timna National Park
Climbing Solomon’s Pillars, Timna National Park

With limited time available, I decided to conquer one monument rather than just barely see them all. Solomon’s Pillars, perhaps the most well-known formation in the valley, called my name, and I made it my mission to climb the entire thing. There are stairs leading about halfway up, but the rest required some free climbing.

View of Timna National Park from the top of Solomon's Pillars
View of Timna National Park from the top of Solomon’s Pillars

The views from the top, though? Totally worth it.

Pro tip: Don’t rent bikes at Timna. They’re impossible to ride in the sand.

Experiencing the Holiest City in the World

Looking out over Jerusalem
Looking out over Jerusalem

I didn’t have a particular interest in visiting the holy sites of Israel, but I found them just about everywhere I went. Jerusalem is hugely significant to many religions including Christianity, Judaism, and Islam, and there are sacred places for each religion found all over Jerusalem.

  • In Christianity, Jerusalem is the place where Jesus was crucified, buried, and resurrected.
  • For the Jews, Jerusalem is the ancestral and spiritual homeland. Those who practice outside of Jerusalem pray facing its direction.
  • In Islam, Jerusalem is sacred due to its association with Islamic prophets, namely Muhammed, who is believed to be a messenger for God. Abraham, David, Solomon, and Jesus are also regarded as Prophets of Islam, and each one has a tie to Jerusalem.
Western Wall, Jerusalem
Western Wall, Jerusalem

People of each faith intensely desire ownership of the city of Jerusalem, and so religion plays a large part in the conflict I mentioned before. Currently the people live in general peace within the city, but there is still a lot of tension. Jerusalem is divided, in fact, and one-half is considered to be a part of the new State of Israel (which was only recognized recently—in 1949) while the other still remains a part of the Palestinian Territories.

To see the holiest place on earth was, indeed, an eye opening experience. To see a city so largely divided, yet living as one, was something else entirely.

Falafel, Hummus, and Tahini, Oh My!

Eating in Israel is something to be especially excited about. I wasn’t excited when I arrived, but the more food I was presented with, the more infatuated with the cuisine I became.

With influences coming from all over the Mediterranean and Middle East, the present day cuisine in Israel is something of a Jewish fusion including foods from all over those regions. I was met with chickpeas in almost every form, and some manifestation of bread and olive oil at almost every meal.

And though it usually was, when hummus wasn’t served, I got very, very angry.

Connecting with My Heritage

Coffee with Moshe, my 2nd cousin
Coffee with Moshe, my 2nd cousin

But my pilgrimage to Israel was enriched by something more significant than incredible experiences and delicious food. I not only saw one of my good friends who now lives in Tel Aviv, but I met some of my family for the first time—cousins on the side of my family that I haven’t connected with much.

I’ll tell you a secret. It’s something I don’t share with people often, but I have four names on my birth certificate. The name I don’t publicize is a German name which extends from my father in the United States to his family who now lives in Israel. Until my trip to Israel, I had never met another person with this name. But, when I saw the smiles on Hannah and Moshe’s faces, and when I met Henia, Sharon, and Gaya, I felt a unique sense of coming home that I had never experienced before.

You see, my grandparents left Vienna in 1939 at the start of the German invasion and, after a year of refuge in Italy, they migrated to Israel where they have remained ever since. Somehow, their warm welcomes and stories of my family left me feeling like I had found a piece of myself that I never knew I was missing.

Even though I had never met these people, something in me felt safe, and something between us clicked. They told me stories of family which gave context to my name. I felt like I had known them forever. They were my blood, and I could feel it. Through some strange twist of fate, I came to Israel as a tourist, but left feeling like I had found another home.

More Information on Visiting Israel

Traveling to Israel is safe. Unless there are imminent warnings, there is no need to worry about traveling in Israel–it’s a wonderful, culturally eye-opening place to visit.

The topic of Israel can be controversial. This is a travel article, not a political one.

READ NEXT: Breaking the Rules in Petra, Jordan: Free Climbing to the Top of the Monastery

Disclaimer: My trip to Israel was made possible through partnerships with the Israel Ministry of TourismTourist IsraelAbraham Tours, and Abraham Hostels. Partnerships like these allow me to continue bringing you content from all over the world. I never allow such partnerships to compromise the integrity of my words and I will only ever recommend companies that I genuinely trust and believe in. Thank you for reading 🙂

About the Author

Jeremy Scott Foster

Jeremy Scott Foster is an adventure-junkie, gear expert and travel photographer based in Southern California. Previously nomadic, he’s been to ~50 countries and loves spending time outdoors. You can usually find him on the trail, on the road, jumping from bridges or hustling on his laptop working to produce the best travel and outdoors content today.
  1. Hi Jeremy,

    Awesomeness! I want to see Israel some day at least; you gave me a nice blue print to work from. I too would have angered at the no hummus situation lol….one of my fave foods in the world. Thanks for the inspired share.


    1. Oh, if you love hummus, then you absolutely need to go to Israel. Nothing can compare!

  2. I loved reading about your own personal journey and meeting with family in addition to your travel advice for Israel. I also enjoyed your observation of all of these different faiths living together amongst the deep conflict. You’ve made me more intrigued about this country and I hope to see it myself someday.

    1. I hope you can see it, too. It’s a really interesting place, and definitely worth a visit. If nothing else, it’s an extremely educational visit.

  3. Honestly, Isreal was never on my radar, but the food is what is actually really been calling my name recently and this post is just the latest in a line. Looks like a great trip, man!

  4. Very cool article and photos.Shared it with my friends. Was just eating Hummus in the shouk 2 hours ago!

  5. Hi, I first saw you on Instagram, and this is the first post I read in your site. I was in Israel last year at a not so good time, my experience was polarizing but I am really happy I went. I love the beaches in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem was an experience. Your post is great and I will be reading the rest for sure. I remember, the humus is wonderful there.

    1. Hi Sergio! Thanks for stopping by. I’m curious to hear what you mean when you say it was polarizing? Israel can be a bizarre place, for sure, but it’s lovely. Tel Aviv was definitely my favorite!

  6. How nice that you met some of your family there for the first time, and I love the shots of the Dead Sea. Wonder if they make ladies’ Sandfly pants, I could do with keeping mozzies away on some of my travels!

    1. Thanks, Suze! It was such a wonderful experience meeting them! ExOfficio does indeed make a ladies version–in fact, you should check out their whole range of travel gear. They make some great stuff!

  7. Such beautiful photography and delicious food all around, its surely would have been a great trip Jeremy 🙂

  8. I just read your post about Israel and Egypt! We must have just missed each other because I was just there. I have absolutely the same thoughts as you did. Israel was something I have never seen before. A orthodox jew, a strict muslim, a tourist/traveler like myself, and then a young military solider with a machine gun all walking the streets together as if it was “normal”. What a humbling experience to learn about the Israeli-Palestine conflict. I also learned about my ignorance on these issues during this trip! Oh and can’t forget about being detained at the airport for 4 hours…. 🙂

    1. I’ve heard so many horror stories of people crossing borders in Israel. I think the conflict there is something you just can’t understand until you’ve experienced it first hand. Sorry I missed you–maybe next time! 🙂

  9. I’ve never seen fotos of the Negev before. It has a strange, unique, beauty. My Grandmother’s family were Jewish but I’ve never been to Israel.

    “I came to Israel as a tourist, but left feeling like I had found another home.” I think I would feel something like that too. A very interesting set of articles.

    1. Especially if you have family there, I would highly recommend going! I hope you can visit soon and experience it yourself.

      1. An update. I was in Jerusalem for a couple of days (all I could afford) in Dec 2106 and found it interesting – to say the least. I’d like to get down to Beer Sheva in the desert next visit (depending on the money).if possible and spend a week or so there.

        1. It’s a wildly interesting place, with so many different tribes of people clashing, yet co-existing.

  10. you should come again and visit the north. Israel is not just desert 🙂 there are beautiful rivers, springs, the Kinneret and Rosh HaNikra grottoes.

  11. Great article that couldn’t be more on spot given the current conflicts in this area! I’ve been dying to visit Isreal since ages but don’t want to travel alone…yet all my friends are sorta scared of the whole area. Same applies to Jordan. The recent refugee crisis hasn’t really improved matters 🙁

    1. It’s very safe, Norman. But I understand that it’s hard to grasp that until you go there yourself.

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